Coming from a nation of over 13,000 islands, the textiles of Indonesia are as varied as their sources, with each group employing unique motifs and imparting their own special meanings. As important cultural artifacts, these textiles tell us much about the beliefs and social systems of the people who made and used them.
Indonesia
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Balinese Ceremonial Embroidery (‘lamak’)
MoreHandsewn narrative embroideries, a little-known form of regional folk art, were produced mid-20th century in west Bali. Six types of these embroideries were made in Negara, in the Jembrana Regency, by individual women as a form of ‘cottage industry’. These were used whenever needed for a celebration in a village, home or temple.
This example, in a vertical format, is a lamak. Ours is rather long and features Dewi Sri, a goddess of fertility, sometimes called “The Rice Goddess”. Below her is a large area of floral motifs with some old mirrors incorporated.
Use over several generations is evident in the patina of age, which includes some stains and discoloration, loose threads and deterioration. These artful old pieces are hard to find in Bali now.
See J. Fischer and T. Cooper, The Folk Art of Bali; 1998; plate 66 shows a very similar lamak.
Size: 10″ x 72″ / 25cm x 183 cm (not including dangles)
$ 95.
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Balinese Ceremonial Embroidery (‘tabing’)
MoreHandsewn narrative embroideries, a little-known form of regional folk art, were produced mid-20th century in west Bali. Six types of these embroideries were made in Negara, in the Jembrana Regency, by individual women as a form of ‘cottage industry’.
This example is a tabing. Used as wall decorations, and bordered like a picture, they often featured subjects from the Hindu epic narratives. This one depicts a scene from ‘The Mahabharata’. Here, the hero Arjuna is depicted in the center on a throne (in heaven perhaps) supported by fearsome Boma, as guardian. He is flanked by either his two wives, or two nymphs, with an undulating, well-detailed naga on each side of this scene in a protective mode.
Most of the embroidery is rendered in silk and cotton thread on cotton cloth. Even today it has a festive quality from the use of color, pattern and dynamic rendering.
Hung in homes, shrines, temples or wherever needed for a celebration, these were used and enjoyed for many years and show the patina of age. This one has some deterioration of threads on the left naga, at the top, near the end of its tail, along with blackened stains possibly from contact with a hot oil lamp, along with the typical age-related discoloration and wear. These are hard to find in Bali now.
See J. Fischer and T. Cooper, The Folk Art of Bali; 1998; p.74-76 for more information about these fascinating cloths.
Size:55″ x 35.5″ / 140cm x 90 cm
$220.
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Balinese Ceremonial Valance (‘ider’)
MoreFrom Negara, in the Jembrana regency of west Bali, these unusual embroideries, called ‘ider’, were used to decorate temples. Often commissioned for special occasions, pieces like this one depict a colorful array of flowers, leaves and vines.
Embroidered in silk and cotton, on cotton; mid-20thc.; good condition for its age, but has some soil and tears. These (see TIB120) would make a great room, door or window surround..
Rarely found, these are documented well in only one source: The Folk Art of Bali; the Narrative Tradition by J. Fisher and T. Cooper; Oxford Press 1998; Chapter 5.
Size: 104″ x 10.5″
$90.
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Balinese Ceremonial Valance (‘ider’)
MoreFrom Negara, in the Jembrana regency of west Bali, these unusual folk art embroideries, called ‘ider’ were used to decorate temples. Often commissioned for special occasions, pieces like this one depict a colorful array of flowers, leaves and vines.
Embroidered in silk and cotton, on cotton; mid-20thc.; good condition for its age, with minor soil and some tears. These would make a great surround for a door, window or room.
Rarely found, these are documented well in only one source: The Folk Art of Bali; the Narrative Tradition by J. Fisher and T. Cooper; Oxford Press 1998; Chapter 5.
Size: 180″ x 10.75″
$155.
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Balinese Embroidery for Indonesian Independence
MoreHandsewn narrative embroideries, a little-known form of regional folk art, were produced mid-20th century in west Bali. Six types of these embroideries were made in Negara, in the Jembrana Regency, by individual women as a form of ‘cottage industry’.
This example is a tabing. Used as wall decorations, and bordered like a picture, they often featured subjects from the Hindu epic narratives. This one, however, was commemorative and celebrates the recently-independent (late 1940’s) nation of Indonesia. It depicts a Garuda Pancasila, which was adopted in 1950 as the new national symbol. The text below means “Unity in Diversity” and is the national motto. Two undulating, well-detailed nagas are flanking in a protective mode.
Most of the embroidery is rendered in cotton thread, with some silk, on cotton cloth.Even today it has a festive quality from the use of color and dynamic rendering of the figures.
Hung in homes, shrines, temples or wherever needed for a celebration, these were used and enjoyed for generations and show the patina of age. This one has some holes in the upper corners from being hung, and some age-related discolorations and missing embroidery.
These historic and artful embroideries are hard to find in Bali now.
See J. Fischer and T. Cooper, The Folk Art of Bali; 1998; p.77-78 for more information about these fascinating cloths; plates 82 and 83 show examples similar to ours.
Size:43.5″ x 36″ / 110cm x 91 cm
$ 200.
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Ceremonial Wallhanging ‘Tirai’
More‘Tirai’ are decorative valances that originated in India and were brought to Indonesia through trade. Hung on walls, across windows and doors, or in one area of a room to form a special space, they are usually in this format, with tongue-like appendages hanging from the lower edge. This charming piece includes old beads and sequins, couched embroidery and traditional motifs in felt on wool and cotton. It is probably darker than originally due to a layer of soot-like color. Not as opulent as some, it has a folk art quality, unusual colors and pleasing simplicity.
Size: 45.75 in. wide x 16.5 in. high
$240.00
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Embroidery from South Sumatra
MoreEmbroideries were, and still are used in west and south Sumatra for special ceremonies, especially weddings. They grace pillow ends, walls and canopies of elaborate wedding ‘beds’, or ceremonial platforms. This one is composed of metallic couched motifs and metal sequins on a red felt background bordered by metallic and acryllic (added later?) thread. First half 20thc.
Size: 5.75″ x 10.75
$50.00
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Kalimantan ‘Pua/Kumbu’
MoreFrom Sintang, West Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo), what is known by other Dayak as ‘pua’ is here called a ‘kumbu’. It is requisite for many traditional ceremonies including rites of passage and healing rituals, and serves to define sacred space, as well as provide protection and decoration. This exceptional textile is a recent weaving (less than 20 years), but beautifully captures the traditional spirit with fine weaving and materials, natural dyes and time-honored motifs.
Size: 76.75″ x 31″
$865.00